It makes sense to invest in a custom tuxedo because it is generally something you can wear for many, many years. (Not to mention that it is somewhat unsatisfying to wear a rented tux last worn by a high school senior doing who knows what!)
At Saint Laurie Merchant Tailors, we make custom tuxedos and dinner jackets that will be worn by grooms or business executives who regularly attend charity functions. The tuxedo may be a form of uniform, however, it is not without opportunities for individual expression. Humphrey Bogart certainly made his dinner jacket from Casablanca memorable!
Presented here is a methodology for designing a custom tuxedo.
The most basic question to ask yourself is whether you want your tux to be modern or traditional in concept. In other words, are you looking for a tuxedo along the lines of what Fred Astaire would have worn or something more consistent with a contemporary red carpet event?
To help you decide, here are the follow-up questions we, at Saint Laurie, would ask you and help you answer:
- Bow tie or straight tie?
- Wing collared shirt or lay down collar?
- Cummerbund, vest, or nothing around your waist?
- Since a belt is not an option, are you comfortable wearing suspenders? If not, are you comfortable wearing your tuxedo trousers low on your hips?
- Midnight blue or black? Saint Laurie offers English wool baratheas (a weave most suitable for tuxedos) in black and midnight blue. (The guideline from yesteryear was, “Waiters wear black, gentlemen, midnight blue!”)
- Peak lapel (shown below), notch lapel (on most business suits) , or shawl collar (on Bogey above)?
- Grosgrain or satin on the lapels? (Grosgrain has ribs, satin is smooth.)
- Are you looking for something innovative, like piping on the lapels?
If it’s your wedding and you would like to coordinate the color from the brides or bridesmaid’s dresses into your ensemble, consider doing so with your choice of tie, pocket square, vest, cummerbund or shirt. At Saint Laurie, we work exclusively with our tie designer, Mimi Fong, www.mimifong.com, on making custom silk tuxedo accessories.
If your tuxedo is mostly for business occasions, most business men don't want a tuxedo which is too glamorous. So, they typically do a looser fit, a notch lapel, and black wool. (I guess the idea is that you shouldn't like a star at a charity event.)
So, whatever the occasion, isn’t it about time you had your own custom made tuxedo?